"Tommy Lee’s enduring RiNo favorite puts an exuberant modern spin on regional Chinese staples in an equally high-energy dining room. While all first-timers (if there are any left) should try the chilled tofu in bang bang sauce, Beijing duck roll, and bone marrow–fried rice, abundant seasonal and daily specials keep regulars coming back — whether for salt-and-pepper squid; pepper beef with honeycomb tripe and woodear mushrooms; or heirloom melon in buttermilk sauce with smoked oysters and caviar at the reservation-only chef’s counter. The bar team is more than up to the pairing challenge the menu presents, known as they are for cocktails infused with Asian ingredients as well as a geeky selection of wines and ciders." - Ruth Tobias
