D.C.’s New Korean Restaurant Onggi Opens in Dupont Circle | Eater DC
"Negative ions and heated Himalayan salt-rock banquettes contribute to a serene, spa-like atmosphere in this Dupont Circle spot located in the former Duck Duck Goose space at 2100 P Street NW; the setting is described in eggshell, beige, and cream tones with plush suede round chairs, warm wooden tables, blush-pink salt rock, and handcrafted ceramic wares from eight different Korean artisans working with indigenous clay. Named for Korean earthenware vessels, the restaurant folds the ancient art of fermentation into technique-savvy meals and leans into Hanjeongsik, a traditional Korean multi-course meal described as "like a carefully choreographed dance," according to owner and culinary director Tanya Kim and executive chef Geewon Kim (not related). Its anticipated spring opening on Tuesday, April 1 is framed as instant Dupont competition for Anju, long considered one of the best sit-down Korean restaurants in town. Service begins with a ceremonial tea cleanse and a squash porridge dusted with sweetened flower powder to stimulate the appetite, then guests choose from three tasting formats: an $85 six-course, a $115 nine-course "Land & Sea," or a $105 nine-course vegan "Earth" option; each progression includes a housemade, brightly acidic white pear kimchi meant to cut through and freshen heavier dishes. The "Land & Sea" sequence includes items such as abalone and japchae while the vegan route uses mushrooms in gochujang and fried tofu; a la carte and lunch offerings (kim bap, chicken wings, mandu) are also available and are served with black bean tea, banchan, and salad. Standouts and traditional touches include Chiljeolpan, a "seven delicacies" pancake that arranges seven colorful ingredients around wafer-thin crepes—originally a Joseon Dynasty court dish symbolizing balance and harmony—and galbi, the marinated grilled short ribs from the same era, served with banchan. Beverage director Colin Sugalski channels Seoul’s nightlife, incorporating makgeolli (described as "customarily free-flowing") into cocktails like University Days (paired with citrus and lemongrass) and the cheekily named "Not Another Lychee Martini" (soju, lychee, ginger, yogurt, chrysanthemum), alongside an eclectic half-dozen beers and a wine list leaning on prosecco and Riesling to match spicy, rich dishes. The partners—Tanya Kim, who studied royal palace cuisine focused on the Joseon Dynasty after time as a U.S. government worker, and Geewon Kim, who honed culinary skills while working construction—say they aim to provide meals in which "beauty, ancient techniques, regional diversity, and communal spirit converge," and that the restaurant’s intentionality "stands as a living tribute to Korea’s culinary legacy." - Evan Caplan
