
5

"Settled in an annex of the old RCA — a 1908 heritage building that once produced records and gramophones — this hot new restaurant and wine bar opened December 8 in Saint-Henri and seats about 55 guests (roughly 35 in a cozy dining room and the rest at a no-reservation “wine island” bar). Two years in the making and run by the Elena team (co-owner Ryan Gray; chef Janice Tiefenbach; Ellen Eamon; Julio Mendy; sommelier Lawrence Fiset; Emma Cardarelli; Marley Sniatowsky), Gia is an homage to Italian grilling centered on an arrosticini grill offering skewers of charcoal-grilled meat typical of Abruzzo — traditional lamb plus beef, pork, and Brussels sprout varieties sold by the unit and served family-style on platters — with a second charcoal grill outside for vegetables, seafood, and larger cuts. Expect some pasta (including pici all’anatra, hand-rolled pasta in duck ragu), seafood and vegetable preparations with a Central Italian bent, and a predominantly Italian, all-natural wine list that favors depth and character. The 4,000-square-foot cinder-block space has earthy terracotta surfaces, olive-grove–toned tiling, and glazed granite counters to evoke Italy while honoring the industrial heritage; a mega terrasse and expanded daytime offerings (coffee and mid-day meals starting in January) are planned, and the restaurant will host large events such as a New Year’s Eve bash. Gia is open at 1025 Lenoir, Wednesday to Saturday from 5 to 11 p.m. (hours subject to change after Christmas)." - Valerie Silva