Cove

Flynn McGarry’s NYC Restaurant Cove Serves Fine-Dining Californian Dishes With East Coast Ingredients | Eater NY

"At this Hudson Square restaurant, you’ll pay top dollar for both the tasting and a la carte menus (I went a la carte as a solo diner), and I found a well-curated natural wine and after-dinner drinks list. The cooking showcases East Coast ingredients through a West Coast lens: the Jonah crab custard ($42) is a warming, creamy pudding generously studded with crab meat and served with two pieces of toasted bread dripping with egg yolk — a worthy, albeit messy, appetizer; the pumpkin schnitzel ($42) surprised me, a giant slab of the gourd fried in a way that maintains its shape, balanced with hazelnuts and chanterelle mushrooms; and the celery root–passionfruit cake ($17), described by my server as similar to a carrot cake, wasn’t overly sweet, with celery root bits adding crunchiness and the exterior doused in a passionfruit syrup with whole seeds. The unassuming front door leads to a dim vestibule with a big fat pumpkin on the floor and hanging aromatic dried herbs, opening into a wide, bright room that doesn’t feel overly luxe; per Flynn McGarry’s preferences, it’s done in blonde wood with Impressionistic wildflower paintings. Insider tip: McGarry has been cultivating a garden on actor Isabella Rossellini’s Long Island farm for sourcing here, so you’ll find preserved shiso in the crab custard, onion blossoms in the schnitzel, and preserved ingredients elsewhere." - Nadia Chaudhury