"One of the group’s celebrated restaurants that helped earn the founder a James Beard Award in 2016 is part of the company-wide shift from tips to a 22% service charge retained by the house. That change has prompted organizing by employees who argue the service-charge model is opaque and, in practice, has reduced many front-of-house workers’ earnings compared with the previous tip-pooling system; management counters that the service charge funds wages and benefits that make compensation competitive across locations." - Harry Cheadle