
3

"Just south of LA in Torrance, I keep going back to the lesser-known but essential sandwiches at New York Deli, a generic Sepulveda Boulevard strip-mall spot whose pastrami—cut diagonally, built thick with about five ounces of peppery-cured brisket—has been fulfilling cravings for the past 38 years. The dining room feels frozen in time, with black-and-white photos of long-gone Hollywood stars, haphazard lattice fencing, hanging wire lights, glass-topped tables and cushioned metal chairs that give off a ’90s-ballroom/Cheers vibe; it’s filled mostly with quiet retirees and people after an affordable, no-fuss lunch. Opened by the Temory family (originally from Afghanistan) in 1985 and still run by Omar, his wife Kamila and son Leo, the place has earned local praise (the Daily Breeze and multiple Reader’s Choice nods from 2014–2017), and the sandwiches largely speak for themselves: the Reuben ($17–18) is an exercise in perfect proportions—tender pastrami or corned beef, crunchy sauerkraut, a thin slice of Swiss and griddled rye—and the untoasted sky-high sandwich ($14–15) is a solid take on Langer’s number 19. The matzo ball soup is a standout—large enough for two or three with a fist-sized matzo ball in deeply rich chicken broth for $10—while bagels and lox ($18) can disappoint (over-salted lox with canned olives and capers); potato pancakes ($11), nearly five inches across and dark brown, are excellent, especially with sour cream and applesauce but tend to sell out. Portions are hefty, service is quick, parking is easy before noon, and the formula has kept regulars coming long before social-media fans took notice." - Matthew Kang