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"Even on stifling Sacramento summer afternoons I often see a line stretching down 14th near O Street for Pizza Supreme Being, a 13-seat shop at 1425 14th Street that opened about four and a half years ago and became mostly takeout-only during the pandemic. After ordering pepperoni-buried slices or a whole pie topped with Spam and pineapple, diners can grab food to go from the familiar takeout window or, soon, wriggle into a nostalgia-inducing blue laminate booth and share slices and a bottle of natural wine in the expanded dining room as the shop takes over the former Zia’s Deli next door at 1401 O Street. Owner Ben Roberts — who cooked at places including Michelin-starred the Kitchen and who cut his teeth running a wood-fired pop-up — makes naturally leavened, two-day-ferment pizzas with toppings ranging from classic cheese to a seasonal peach with Jimmy Nardello peppers and playful riffs like a Jimboy’s-inspired, Parmesan-dusted taco pizza; he also hosts local collaborations (an okonomiyaki-style pizza with Sacramento ramen shop Kodaiko sold out online) and sells limited-run merch such as bumper stickers, hats, and “ranch dust.” The extra space will let him expand the menu to include items teased on Instagram — a vegan Caesar using a faux fish sauce made from tamari, dried porcinis, and nori; a brown-butter M&M cookie; a fresh pasta station (with ideas like a Hamburger Helper–inspired dish); and a frozen-yogurt machine dispensing vanilla and Dole Whip–style pineapple cones — all grounded in a Chez Panisse–inspired sourcing approach but delivered with a punk-rock, fun, and affordable ethos. Roberts says he hopes to reopen the dine-in room by September, is still planning to hire a chef to oversee the new kitchen, and notes the Davis location remains open for anyone who needs a fix." - Lauren Saria