Oakland Brunch Spot the Peach Opens With Chef Juan Stevenson From Georgia | Eater SF
"This new brunch restaurant debuts in Oakland on Saturday, December 14 and will be open from 8 a.m. to 3 p.m., Tuesday through Sunday. The opening was heavily anticipated and then delayed after a wave of departures: Intu-on Kornnawong (the chef and partner who had been associated with Jo’s Modern Thai) and at least four back-of-house staff quit on Sunday, October 20. An anonymous blog written by 14 front- and back-of-house staff alleged issues with the owner, including “ongoing harassment and intimidation” via what was characterized as an arbitrary write-up system; poor and inconsistent communication; and a lack of concern for employee health, safety, and welfare. In an interview with Eater SF, Kornnawong attributed her leaving both restaurants to a “multitude of differences” with Saelee: “I felt like we had a difference in the direction and vision of the restaurant,” Kornnawong said of Saelee. “We didn’t see eye-to-eye on the communications and the way to treat our staff.” Saelee responded, “It’s a great reminder to start with clear intention, building a strong foundation and just overcommunicating with people,” and added, “everything that I do is for the Oakland community so hopefully people will see and understand that everything we do is for the preservation of Oakland.” Following those departures, Saelee recruited Georgia chef Juan Stevenson to helm both restaurants. Born in Jakarta, Indonesia, Stevenson began working in restaurants while at Savannah College of Art and Design, with stints at Atlanta’s Bacchanalia, as opening chef at Late Air in Savannah, and running his own 2024 pop-up Juju’s Street Eats; he moved from Georgia to Oakland to carry out a vision of Southeast Asian– and American‑inspired breakfast cuisine. “I wanted to go to an area where I felt like I could definitely grow into the cuisine that I wanted to explore more, which was Southeast Asian- and American-inspired food,” Stevenson says. The opening menu includes shrimp and grits reimagined as a rice-porridge, congee-style dish with grilled shrimp, coconut curry, and chile crisp—similar to the Indonesian bubur ayam—and Stevenson notes, “The sauce that accompanies [the shrimp and grits] has roots back to things that my mother would make,” adding it’s “just like a curried shrimp stew, similar to what you’d find in Georgia breakfast food smothered shrimps.” French toast will be dipped in custard, then torched and grilled to a crackly crème brûlée top with seasonal fruit compote and savory miso whipped cream. Stevenson is also bringing a version of fried chicken he’s been developing for two years, described as having a gluten-free “shattery crust” inspired by East and Southeast Asia; that smashed fried chicken appears in a chicken sandwich and a fried‑chicken‑and‑pancakes dish. William Tsui (of an Oakland bar) developed the cocktail menu, which emphasizes low‑ABV offerings such as the Coconut Low‑Groni—a take on the Negroni featuring vermouths and coconut water—and the Yuzu Mule with yuzushu sake and ginger beer; wines by the glass, coffee, and brunch‑appropriate drinks (matcha lattes, fresh orange juice, sparkling lemonade) round out beverages. The project occupies a beloved former Lakeshore Avenue café location reimagined by design firm Studio Kosma, and Stevenson says he’s focused on learning from and serving the local community as he executes the concept." - Dianne de Guzman
