

9

"One of Dallas’s most anticipated openings pairs casual French bistro cues with fine-dining precision under executive chef Christophe De Lellis, who spent more than a decade at Joël Robuchon. The Riviera-inspired philosophy is simplicity: familiar ingredients made to feel special, often energized by a labor-intensive, three-day chicken jus—searing and simmering 120 pounds of wings and reducing about 60 quarts to six until it thickens naturally. Jidori chicken arrives as both thigh and breast, about half a bird per person, with glazed turnips, a silky sunchoke purée, and a vin jaune sauce. Agnolotti folds in chanterelle mushrooms with a butter-and-chicken-stock sauce and a pure corn filling that tastes like the essence of Brentwood sweet corn, finished with chives and a touch of that jus. An artichoke salad layers za’atar yogurt brightened with preserved lemon and garlic, a poached heart, chips fried from the trimmings, smoky baba ghanoush, confit tomato, and mint oil for freshness. Scottish salmon is lightly cured, cooked medium-rare—seared on one side and brushed on the other—and paired with braised fennel, a crunchy raw fennel salad, and a chickpea-broth sauce enriched with cream, house chickpea tamari, espelette chili oil, and fig-leaf oil. A finely sliced vitello tonnato keeps it classic but lighter with an airy, siphoned dressing of tuna, capers, anchovy, mayo, and lemon, finished with fried capers, pickled mustard seeds, and, again, a few drops of that powerful jus." - H. Drew Blackburn