"A comparatively unheralded but excellent Spanish restaurant, Trangallan spills out onto a spacious public space, just off Newington Green in north London. Some classics — like, when it appears, a fine tortilla — are executed with aplomb, but its with the modern preparation of Spanish ingredients that the kitchen likes to flex. Cod with hispi cabbage and Iberian pork, for example, or rare grilled beef with anchovy emulsion." - Adam Coghlan