"Open for: DinnerPrice range: $Duck into Cent’s, which is located in an unassuming brick building on the western edge of Ohio City, and you’re immersed in a dreamy tangerine-colored tableau. Owner Vincent Morelli, a former visual merchandiser who also had a stint at Roberta’s in Brooklyn, has installed modular shelving stocked with eclectic merch like tinned fish, art mags, and turntables. Baked in a wood-burning oven, the Neapolitan-ish pies are exceptional, with clever combos like tomato, garlic, white anchovies, and capers, or the Sunday Gravy with bite-size meatballs, sliced garlic, and a shower of pecorino.Must-try: While it might seem antithetical to order bread before pizza, Morelli’s wonder bread is truly a wonder. The poofy pillow is served with cultured butter, but regulars know to order the house-made stracciatella as well." - Douglas Trattner
