"A Michelin-starred Galway restaurant led by JP McMahon that presents a 24-course tasting menu rooted in coastal foraging, river angling, and preindustrial Irish foodways; the kitchen champions freshwater species like pollan and eels, promotes seaweed as a key ingredient (with offerings such as pickled dillisk and rock samphire), and applies inventive touches like powdered sea truffle over cider-poached razor clams." - Taras Grescoe