"Three stores down, in stark contrast to Hoy Wong, is Keki Modern Cakes—a spare, gleaming, modern storefront seemingly made for Instagram with its photogenic "bouncy cheesecake." For the last few years, trendy places like Keki, novelty ice cream, mochi, and bubble tea spots, have begun making major inroads into Chinatown. I was already concerned about the danger that these changing tastes pose to venerable businesses like Hoy Wong and Chinatown itself. Now I worry that COVID-19 might just be the final blow. Sarah Crowder" - Grace Young