

2

"Indoor dining in this Murray Hill Chinese restaurant felt like a tentative return to normal: the author, fully masked and vaccinated, sat by an open door while a regular companion ordered his usual luncheon dumplings, which were described as excellent; gusts of wind and splashed soy sauce and pork juice made the meal slightly neurotic, and the arrival of careless, unmasked tourists prompted the table to cut the visit short and vow to dine outdoors next time." - Adam Platt