A Restaurant Critic Considers the Perfect Ham Sandwich

"A beloved lunchtime counter that turns out a classic ham-and-cheese in a simple, perfectly judged style: two soft slices of white bread (ideally grabbed from an open loaf of Arnold’s), Swiss cheese rather than processed American, thin, textural shavings of ham, cool out-of-season tomato, confetti-style shredded iceberg, and the tang of mustard balanced with creamy off-brand mayonnaise. The sandwich is modestly sized, neatly wrapped in crinkly paper with origami-like skill so it stays fresh for hours, portable and unmessy, designed for a quick, contemplative meal rather than an afternoon nap. On a recent visit the storefront had a metal grate down, fluorescent coolers and racks of old chips visible through the window, leaving its current status uncertain." - Adam Platt