Sauerkraut Fish Opens in NYC

"A new Third Avenue restaurant built around suancai yu (sour-vegetable fish) offers the house specialty in original or spicy versions with mix-ins like vermicelli or mushrooms; even single portions arrive in massive bowls (about $26) packed with sliced white snakehead fish in a golden, greens-dappled broth crowned by a pile of dried red chiles. The poached snakehead is flaky with slightly gelatinous skin, and the interplay of seafood stock and umami-rich pickled mustard greens creates a pungent, tangy, steamy broth—saltier and chunkier here than at the Tangram mall chain. The space is mall-bright, lined with orange banquettes and visible delivery-app gear, and the dish has quickly become the dominant order at tables." - Tammie Teclemariam