The Absolute Best Restaurants in Red Hook

"Beneath the green and rusted girders of the Gowanus Expressway, pies are fired in an ancient oven fed by a stack of split logs; greenmarket options inform starters like a springtime asparagus dish with Pecorino and a buttery six-minute egg. The pizzas have a slight sourdough tang with spots of char, bubbles galore, and a wispy, inner-tube-like outer crust, and toppings such as sour pickled chilies, broccoli rabe, and spicy sausage sit beneath melted mozzarella and vaporized ricotta. A margherita built from smooth buffalo mozzarella, nutty Pecorino, almost-fermented tomato, and a splash of bitter olive oil is particularly majestic." - Hugh Merwin