"When, during the construction of the falafel pita, the constructor takes the extra time to compress the already packed ingredients in order to better stuff in more, it bodes well for dinner. Here, the Jordanian owner Khaleel Salman, who comes from a family of falafel-makers in Amman, takes that extra step to shmush, but he takes others as well. The flair, for example, with which he flicks the silver foil shut around the engorged pita, is like to-go origami. The falafel itself is like a little ball of lava, steam escaping from the solid crust. It comes with fattoush so fresh it seems tumbled from the greengrocers and neon-green pickled peppers in thin arabesques that resemble a Kehinde Wiley background." - Joshua David Stein