"In the hillside village of Koutouloufari, with views down to Crete’s busy north coast, Villa Ippocampi makes a surprisingly blissful retreat for a relaxed summer holiday or an off-season escape a deux. The owners are a Greek-Dutch couple: Nikos, who originates from the village, and his Dutch wife Lydia who has lived on the island since 1984. Laid-back and restful, the white Cycladic-style building offers 13 simple but stylish suites of various sizes, each with a kitchenette. Set in a walled garden planted with lavender, bougainvillea, geraniums and a towering palm tree, it gives onto a lovely pool and poolside café serving coffee, juices and cocktails till sunset, after which peace reigns. Head out to explore the local villages, packed with small friendly tavernas and cafes, and the beaches within reach. Highs Really personal service and friendly welcoming atmosphere – many guests are return visitors We loved the simple but attractive blue-white décor, pepped up with pink flowers, ceramic jars and flickering lanterns Very peaceful and private, thanks to the hedges and walled gardens, plus a lovely pool Lying between the sea and mountains, low-key Koutouloufari offers a handful of authentic eateries and informal cafes frequented by locals Excellent proximity to local shops and tavernas, as well as three lovely villages Lows No restaurant – the poolside cafe only serves drinks, so unless you're self-catering, for all meals you’ll need walk to the nearby villages The commercialised resorts of Hersonissos, Malia and Stalida are only 5km away, but easily avoided The terraces of the ground-floor suites at the front look straight onto the pool area, so lack privacy No kids under 12 means maximum tranquillity for couples On our last visit, we noticed noise from passing mopeds" - Jane Foster