"In the heart of the city, with skyscraping condos, aquatic shanty towns and traffic-clogged avenues stretching for miles in every direction, lies this oasis of calm. Leafy gardens, tall palms, colourful frangipanis, raised wooden decks and a flower-ringed swimming pool usher you into a distant dream world. But the view from the floating pavilion is pure Bangkok: across the Chao Phraya’s busy waters, Wat Arun (the Temple of Dawn) and Wat Kalayanamit flank, like exotic spaceships, the fortress of Vichai Prasit.This hidden pearl among river-front hotels is the 100-year-old residence of Prince Chakrabongse (pronounced Jackapong), 40th son of the prolific King Rama V and hagiographer of the Chakri Dynasty. It now belongs to his granddaughter Narisa. At the end of its gardens are some lovely little Thai-style cottages housing 4 suites; while an annexe attached to the main house contains 3 cosy rooms for travellers watching their baht. Whether you’re a romantic couple, a discerning group of friends or a family looking for a home from home, it feels like a privilege to stay here. Highs We loved the sense of space and tradition in the wooden Ayutthaya-style cottage suitesOur Thai dinner was one of the most memorable we've eaten in Bangkok - sitting at low candle-lit tables in the riverside pavilionThis is a real haven in a big bustling city, with a beautiful garden setting right by the river, and views to Vichai PrasitA plush and powerful James Bond-style speedboat (extra cost) for exploring Bangkok the authentic way, via its extensive river and canal networkA real sense of privilege and seclusion, and you often have the grounds and pool to yourselves Lows Since we first trumpeted this place, rates have risen to 4-star-hotel levels, but that is the price of such an exclusive venueThe 3 annexe rooms are pretty small, but you can relax in the gardens tooExpect noise from the longtail boats whizzing up and down the river - especially early in the morningIf you want to eat lunch or dinner at the hotel you need to let the staff know several hours in advance, which could irk someWe would have loved to look around the impressive palace building; but sadly it's still a private residence and is closed to hotel guests" - Michael Cullen