"An island-like peninsula between Lake Vembanad and the Arabian Sea, Fort Cochin was once the centre of Kerala’s international spice trade. Arabic and Oriental traders rubbed shoulders with Jewish merchants; Dutch, Portuguese and British colonists added to the mix; and all made their mark here. On a wide boulevard nudging the ocean, among white-washed churches and back-street synagogues, the Tea Bungalow is part of that old-world legacy. Built in 1912 as the offices of a British company trading in coir and spices, it was bought by Brooke Bond in the 1950s and used as a staff guesthouse for visiting managers. By the time it was sold again, some 50 years later, it was empty and semi-derelict. A 2-year restoration followed, and in 2009 it re-emerged as a small heritage hotel. Under low red-tiled roofs there's a wide veranda, with original French doors opening onto a walled garden shaded with banana, avocado and jack-fruit trees. Inside, the décor nods towards colonial imperialism (there is a picture of the Queen on the stairwell), but the airy rooms, luxury bathrooms and the glittering tiled pool are new-born 21st century. Highs The graceful old building (more mansion than bungalow) has been beautifully restored; it's a wonderful collision of historic and contemporary IndiaIt's in a great location, in a quiet corner of the so-called Heritage Zone; it's an easy walk to the sea and a 10-minute tuk-tuk ride from Mattancherry’s Jewtown The accommodation is comfortable and stylish, particularly the large, lofty rooms in the original houseThe contemporary bathrooms are very smart: all marble, glass, pebble tiles and monsoon showers (some have little forests of tropical plants) There's a wide choice of dinner menus - both western and Indian - which will suit children and anyone wanting a change from curries Lows Some of the rooms open directly onto the restaurant, which might compromise privacyFor those who like to sleep in a dark room, the combination of thin blinds and outdoor night lights could irritateThere are only a few loungers around the pool, so get there early if you want to spend an afternoon sunbathing" - Lesley Gillilan