MaryGold's by Brad Kilgore Review - Wynwood - Miami - The Infatuation
"In a previous life, MaryGold’s had an overzealous menu that focused too much on dramatic presentations. For $72, you could order two paltry chicken breasts surrounded by burning hay that got paraded around the table for no reason at all. But that’s no longer true. MaryGold’s revamped its menu and is now a restaurant that brings sophistication to Wynwood without unnecessary arrogance. Expect polished dishes that aren’t ostentatious but have enough subtle creativity to stand out. Which is exactly what we’d always hoped for from the restaurant whose lineage includes , a now-closed fine dining spot that helped establish Wynwood as a place for exciting restaurants. It didn’t happen at the starting line, but MaryGold’s caught up by losing some baggage, adding more relatable dishes, and keeping winners like a burger that tastes just like French onion soup. But there are new additions now too, like an heirloom tomato appetizer with stracciatella in leche de tigre that looks like a garden on a snowy day and boasts every flavor known to man (rich, tangy, creamy, nutty, citrusy, spicy, and herbaceous). The food reflects the space: simultaneously interesting and elegant, but also comfortable. It has an enormous marble bar with globe lights on a bent track that reminds us of those bead mazes in pediatrician offices. Long hammered mirrors hang over half-moon booths. Custom plates are individually stamped on the bottom. It’s a beautiful dining room with thoughtful touches and a fantastic bar program created by the team. MaryGold’s is a lot like this review. The first version was, honestly, disjointed and lost. The restaurant tried too hard to be grand and innovative when it needed to be more accessible. But it’s pulled itself together into something that finally makes sense: a place that’s inviting but refined, creative yet uncomplicated. As a reader, you never get to see first drafts—just the final version. A restaurant doesn’t have that liberty. Their choices are criticized the moment those doors open. It takes a very good one to step back, reassess, and understand the work isn’t finished. And we love MaryGold’s new direction. " - Virginia Otazo
