Pantagruel - Review - 2nd Arr. - Paris - The Infatuation

"Pantagruel is a famous mythical character in French literature who “loves to indulge in epicurean pleasures,” says the menu, which not only explains the restaurant’s name, but how the courses—dubbed “chapters”—unfold. Each dish is actually three mini ones: The chef focuses on one major ingredient (say, leeks) and serves it three ways on a variety of striking ceramic plates. If it sounds very The Menu, it is. But it works, and no one will turn into a s’more at the end. Added flair comes in the form of dry ice, nori and miso seaweed butter prepared tableside, and a recording of “Pantagruel” that’s read aloud in the bathroom. Despite the small portion sizes, you’re still getting three mini plates of each course—at lunch, it’s three for €65, while at dinner it’s six for €150—so you won’t leave hungry." - Sara Lieberman