Goodbye Horses Review - Islington - London - The Infatuation
"An evening at Goodbye Horses is like a dinner party at a not-so-struggling artist's house. They might appear like an irritating host—the type who enjoys modern European small plates, being very serious about wine, and lives in one of those white-washed million-pound Islington townhouses. But after eating here you’ll want a repeat invite. photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch Curtains are hand-painted, records are stacked by the door, and a small crowd of people (who definitely get the Q Lazzarus reference in the restaurant’s name) sit at the solid oak counter, twirling glassware that’s stencilled with a horse and moon logo. It’s all very beautiful and considered, but has the ease of something that was knocked together at the last minute. Between chatting star signs with solo diners, converting doubters to orange wine, and recommending dishes, staff tinker with the record player and the mood is as laid-back and relaxed as the crinkled linen top your neighbour's wearing. photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch Modern European plates look pretty and are, for the most part, a hit, like oxtail ragout flecked with crispy meat and the rich, creamy cheese toastie. We’d skip the overly-set hazelnut affogato and heavy plate of eggs. But this is still perfect food for picking at with a date, or with a small group of friends who appreciate edible flowers and the bonhomie of a shared wooden table. Food Rundown photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch Baguette & Butter This is a nice, dark, crispy baguette. The butter is the perfect temperature for spreading and flecked with the right amount—i.e. a lot—of flaky salt. It also feels pretty essential if you’re getting the eggs or the tartare, and want a carb vehicle for scooping. photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch Eggs Mayonnaise This is too many eggs. Two boiled eggs—halved—is quite a lot of eggs to work through at the beginning of a meal. Especially as they come topped with a creamy mayo, which while thinner and lighter than anything Hellmann’s is doing, is still quite rich. Having said that, we’re big fans of the crunchy, matchstick potato on top that brings some much-needed crunch and saltiness. This is worth getting, but consider sharing it if you aren’t a bodybuilder. photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch Oxtail Ragout Broken Rice Our favourite dish here and one of the prettiest. Light but flavourful, with nutty rice and little crispy bits of meat scattered throughout. It’s balanced and just the right size for one, or two if you plan on getting stuck into the short menu. photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch Cheese Toastie If you’re wondering if it’s worth ordering a toastie at a wine bar, the answer is yes. Because this pinstriped, griddled number is far superior to anything our Breville has churned out. The cheese is a creamy, tangy, stretchy delight. And we think the addition of a leek pickle is inspired. photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch Beef Tartare As well as adding aesthetic brownie points, the toppings on this tartare do a lot of heavy lifting. The sourdough croutons bring crunch, the flowers add citrussy pops, and the smoky chilli stops things from getting too monotonous. It’s a great, balanced beef tartare, the kind that won’t make you feel like you're on an extreme iron diet. photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch Hazelnut Affogato This could be good, if the temperatures were worked out. The ice cream was a little hard to spoon, even with the boiling coffee poured over the top. It could have done with being left out a bit longer before serving. The hazelnut flavour was very pleasant, though." - Sinéad Cranna
