Bastia has lofty aspirations and little payoff - Review - Philadelphia - The Infatuation
"Expectations for a hotel restaurant usually hover around an overpriced but edible filet of salmon for an early dinner, and a burger you can eat in a robe at midnight. That’s not true of Bastia, the stunning Mediterranean restaurant in Fishtown’s Anna & Bel hotel. Their dishes aren’t serviceable, no matter the time of day. The chef comes from (much beloved) Stock and was co-owner of Res Ipsa, so we had high hopes that it would capture some of the warmth and creativity showcased at those long-shuttered places. But despite the ambitious menu and high-quality ingredients, the execution is utterly perplexing. photo credit: Birch Thomas video credit: Alison Kessler photo credit: Birch Thomas Pause Unmute The chic dining room looks like it could be from the set of The White Lotus - Sardinia, thanks to a sleek marble bar, imposing wicker chairs, and oversized fireplace anchoring the room. The soundtrack would be boring for an airport lounge, though it gets loud with couples and groups of friends digging into their butter-soaked focaccia and scraggly octopus, or chocolate-topped burrata (in our case, still frozen in the center). The disappointment on the plate doesn’t end with frigid, mealy cheese and its gloppy pile of toppings—hiramasa crudo is drowning in olive oil; langostinos, charred on the outside, are utterly raw in the center; the chewy, fatty entrecote of beef is so sliced and diced it looks like it was prepared by Edward Scissorhands himself. photo credit: Alison B. Kessler photo credit: CANDIS R. MCLEAN photo credit: Alison Kessler photo credit: Alison Kessler Pause Unmute You might be tempted to make a reservation—we know it’s been highly recommended. But for a place on every list and big-night-out prices to boot, there’s rarely a payoff on the plate. If you do find yourself here, stick to the cocktails and the skate cheeks. At least you’ll get a clementine with the check. Food Rundown Burrata, Hazelnuts, And Dark Chocolate This cheese, hazelnut, and dark chocolate combination has been on the menu since Bastia opened. We’ve had it with grapefruit and thomcord grapes, and also with pomelo and blood orange. And every time we’ve eaten it, it reminds us of something we’d see on Chopped. The flavors and textures are all in competition with one another, leaving the overall dish completely disjointed. photo credit: Alison B. Kessler Amberjack Crudo With Celery Root, Pomelo, Fried Shallot And Padron Pepper Like many dishes here, this one may keep the olive oil industry in business. The delicate fish feels like an afterthought, while the punchy flavors of pomelo and pepper are completely lost in the pool of olive oil it's all drowning in. PlayMute video credit: Candis Mclean Skate Cheeks Throughout several visits, these tender, buttery cheeks have remained the best dish here. Preparations change, but this is always a safe order. Swordfish Brochettes With Walnut Pesto, Spiced Labneh And Venere Black Rice Grilled swordfish. A basic lemony walnut pesto. Yawn. photo credit: Alison B. Kessler Grass Fed Entrecôte Like much of the menu, this beef is overwrought in presentation and preparation. It does taste better than it looks, but that’s not saying much. photo credit: Alison B. Kessler Basque Cheesecake If Bastia hadn’t opened just a few months ago, we’d say this was made from cream cheese that had been rotting in the refrigerator for a few years. Completely putrid in taste and smell. photo credit: Alison Kessler" - Candis R. McLean
