Elliot’s Review - London Bridge - London - The Infatuation
"Before small plates became synonymous with Tabi shoes and San Pelly enthusiasts, there was Elliot’s. This modern European restaurant and wine bar hybrid in Borough Market has been serving tarted-up snacks and clever leafy salads for over a decade, and we return to it like a flirty moth to the natural wine flame. Elliot's dining room understands that sometimes all you need to set the mood to 'Oh, this old thing?'-cool is some black paint and statement mid-century furniture, hold any pretentious faff. The crowd is wonderfully mixed, from friends with funky little ‘taches to City workers who have crossed south for a gorgonzola-topped pizza and three-quarter pints. photo credit: Heidi Lauth Beasley video credit: Heidi Lauth Beasley The restaurant is classy but never stiff, relaxed but worthy of romance, and, as the night ticks away, the front bar area takes on a glow that draws in passing couples to those two free seats like a cosmic game of musical chairs. The meal that follows can go from genius walnut ketchup and artful smears of salsa verde to comfortingly chewy sourdough pizzas in the blink of a bottle of orange wine. Stomach space is best reserved for an ambitious tour through the small plates section, so ignore the bigger stuff, as dishes like a hulking show-off steak with unnecessary lardo don’t live up to the delightful simplicity of their mini counterparts. And always, always, (and once more so you know we’re serious) always order the signature cheese puffs. They’re a one-bite wonder for the ages. Elliot's may be far from the only good small plates restaurant in London. But if you’re looking to nurture a raging crush on some stracciatella and the person opposite you, there are few better. Food Rundown Minus a few signature classics, the menu at Elliot’s changes regularly. Here’s an idea of what you can expect. photo credit: Heidi Lauth Beasley Isle Of Mull Cheese Puffs A gorgeous, gooey ode to the sensual nature of frying. These are a bit crispy and seductively naughty, but what really sets them apart from all of London’s other cheesy bites is the fantastic tang of the cheddar. Don’t be surprised if you’re perusing Isle Of Mull rentals after they’re finished. photo credit: Heidi Lauth Beasley Beef Carpaccio, Tonnato Dressing, Rocket & Fried Capers A double billing of richness courtesy of the silky smooth beef and creamy tonnato sauce, with a lovely salty finish. photo credit: Heidi Lauth Beasley Stracciatella, White Peach, Golden Beetroot & Oregano Behold, our shopping list when we’re rich and famous. But in all seriousness, this is a simple, subtly sweet example of Elliot’s making use of the exceptional fresh produce from Borough Market and British farms. The beetroot adds earthiness to the high-voltage cream of that glistening puddle of cheese. photo credit: Heidi Lauth Beasley Fried Buddington Farm Potatoes & Aioli A rose by any other name... forget their fancy origin story title, these are chips. Very good ones with a thick skin that makes us believe that ‘stodge’ should be considered an accolade. We’ve been known to hoard the crispy edges and dip them in the supremely garlicky aioli. photo credit: Heidi Lauth Beasley Pepperoni, ‘Nduja, & Gorgonzola Dolce Pizza There’s nothing subtle about this toppings combination, and don’t expect our reaction to them to be subtle either. It’s an intense medley of spice, smokiness, and confidently pungent cheese that, thanks to the sourness of the wood-fired dough base, works." - Heidi Lauth Beasley
