Magari By Oca - Review - Commercial Drive - Vancouver - The Infatuation

"It’s not unusual to see a line outside this Italian spot on Commercial Drive a good half-hour before doors open. The moment you’re in, you know you’ve lucked out, and so does everyone else. The $75 facciamo noi set menu is the smartest play, anchored by fresh pasta. The kitchen sticks to traditional Italian methods, turning out relatively simple but always incredible pasta dishes. You might get a crown of rotolo piped with a fluffy mix of herbs and ricotta, gnocchi in summer tomato and basil, or tagliatelle layered with rich duck ragù. It’s all made and plated right in front of you at the counter. A walk along The Drive before or after dinner offers a lingering trace of its Italian and working-class roots, stitched through cafés, record shops, and grocers, with notes of incense, espresso, and tomato vine in the air." - Michelle Sproule