"The best part about Erba’s butter candle isn’t that it’s free or how it’s nonchalantly dropped off at your table without a word. It’s the precedent it sets for the rest of your meal—one that is full of delicious surprises. Even though the butter candle is a fleeting TikTok trend, it’s anything but gimmicky at Erba. The food-safe wick is made of beeswax and hemp (but don’t eat it). After the candle has melted a bit, your server leaves aromatic rosemary focaccia beside it and reveals the plot twist: it was butter all along. The candle has a primal way of bringing a table together like a campfire gathers strangers around crackling flames. Did we mention it’s free? But you should pay for something while you’re here too—specifically the agnolotti." - ryan pfeffer, virginia otazo