"People like to say that certain restaurants feel like someone’s living room. But unless those people are talking about Shaw-naé's House—a six-table soul food destination on Staten Island—we don’t really believe them. Inside the ground floor of a clapboard house in Stapleton Heights, people from all over the city sit on couches next to a faux fireplace, waiting for some of the city’s best collard greens, served by a woman who will win you over before you even try her oxtails. The cluttered room blurs the line between decoration and real life. Are those unlaced basketball shoes under that coat rack there on purpose? Or did someone just slip them off before their meal? Mismatched coffee cups say things like “Breakfast Wine,” and the placemat menus read “It’s dinner time. You made it home.” photo credit: Alex Staniloff photo credit: Alex Staniloff photo credit: Alex Staniloff photo credit: Alex Staniloff In the middle of it all is Shaw-naé Dixon. Technically, she’s everywhere—large TVs hung high up on the walls silently display her cheery cooking demonstrations on a loop—but there’s nothing quite like Shaw-naé herself, who’s there most nights, flitting around the room blowing kisses, clearing plates, and recommending the Sugar Daddy Wings. Listen to her. Those wings have all the extravagance of chicken and waffles in a lacquered, chicken wing form. Also get the soul fries—battered fries layered with an unexpectedly successful combination of fried catfish and mac and cheese. Shaw-naé’s oxtails are inexplicably tender, the ribs always satisfyingly sticky, and the collard greens are the most deeply savory version we’ve encountered on any tray of soul food. photo credit: Alex Staniloff photo credit: Alex Staniloff photo credit: Alex Staniloff A group of four is just about perfect for dinner here, and it means you can get a pitcher of sunrise pink, Malibu-like rum punch. Once your pitcher is drained, your leftovers are boxed up (there will definitely be leftovers), and you finally say goodbye after lingering about 20 minutes too long over dessert, Shaw-naé might tell you she loves you. Stomach full, struggling to push open that heavy front door, you won’t hesitate to say it right back. Food Rundown photo credit: Alex Staniloff Cornbread The cornbread is usually waiting for you when you sit down, a basketful of whatever colorful varieties Shaw-naé has decided on that day. Hope for the strawberry, but trust that any flavor will be moist and sweet, with just a bit of that classic cornmeal crunch. photo credit: Alex Staniloff Sugar Daddy Wings Like chicken and waffles, in chicken wing form. Covered in an extra cinnamony, extra sticky, extra salty glaze, and drizzled generously with maple butter, these breaded and fried chicken wings should be studied under a microscope. Because even under all that sticky-sweetness, their skin remains crisp—like edible shards of glass. photo credit: Alex Staniloff Soul Fries Loaded fries, Shaw-naé’s way. The fries themselves are battered, then layered with cheese sauce, mac and cheese, and collard greens, plus your choice of fried chicken or fried catfish. Go for the catfish, which is tender and flaky, and get a little bit of every topping in each bite. photo credit: Alex Staniloff Oxtail With White Rice These could be the world’s sauciest oxtails. The chocolate brown gravy is thick and laced with star-anise, and the meat is buttery soft. They come with white rice, which might at first sound slightly forgettable. But it’s seasoned impeccably, just like everything else here. Magnificent. photo credit: Alex Staniloff Ribs and Fries As soon as you touch one of these charred, brick-red ribs, the meat tumbles from the bone like it’s just been waiting for you to pay it some attention. On the side are those excellent battered fries. This is a great plate. photo credit: Alex Staniloff Mac and Cheese Yes, there’s mac and cheese on the Soul Fries, but get a side of mac anyway. It’s soft and creamy, but every cup has bits of melty top interspersed throughout. Collard Greens No notes. Perfect collard greens. They’re extra savory, and cooked into a tender heap with just a slight bite." - Willa Moore
