Kaia - Review - South End - Boston - The Infatuation
"The restaurant group behind Krasi and Bar Vlaha, two of the toughest tables in town, seemingly can’t stop opening Greek restaurants. Not that we’re complaining. Kaia, the latest addition, is the sexy older sister that just breezed into town on a private jet from Santorini. The energy and the menu is very Greek isles, which means there’s lots of fish, lamb, and a host stand that doubles as a DJ booth. Set on the ground floor of one of the many new shiny towers in the South End, even the space evokes the islands, with a pillar that looks ripped from the Parthenon and soft tones of white and beige. The food is excellent and puts Greek ingredients front and center, in dishes like rich lamb carpaccio and a spicy feta dip made dank with stinky tofu. Food Rundown photo credit: Birch Cabbage We know it’s wild to call out a cabbage dish as a must-try, but trust us on this one. The soft layers of cabbage with crispy charred edges would be enough on its own, but dig down and scoop up the revithada, a simple chickpea spread made rich with miso, hidden under the leaves. The cabbage is crunchy, but it’s also tender, and there’s something about how the char plays with the miso that’s downright soulful. Cod Cheeks This is probably the best cod dish we’ve ever had. Sweet, delicate cheeks are covered with a smoky avgolemono sauce (made with chicken broth, egg yolks, and lemon juice), and flavored with kritamo, a Greek herb similar to fennel. The firm, gelatinous cheeks taste like they’re floating in a foamy, effervescent cloud of smoky broth. Gyro You can order this deconstructed lamb gyro “whole” or “half.” Half is perfect for two people to split with a few other dishes, but once you bite into the crispy neck meat and pillow-soft pita flecked with zucchini, you’ll want to keep it all to yourself." - Tanya Edwards
