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"Fan Wu, named after ancient Daoist texts, blends graffiti, calligraphy, and calm interiors near Milan’s Central Station. The star of the menu is the qianlong cabbage—raw leaves dressed in the ancient “99311” recipe (nine parts vinegar, nine honey, three sesame paste, one sugar, one salt)—a timeless classic and elegant complement to the menu’s richer, spicier options. Spiraled century eggs with chili, delicately steamed clams stuffed with shrimp, and fresh morning glory round out the classics, while piatti particolari include steamed eggs with seafood sauce, duck blood tofu, and flower-cut kidney with leeks and chili." - Michael Zee