"At this French restaurant on the second floor of The Rittenhouse Hotel, sommeliers whisper-talk about vine temperatures, dishes come adorned with French mother sauces, and diners reminisce about the George H.W. Bush administration. The room is admittedly stiff, but the food often makes up for the snooze. Think risotto of new potatoes with Kaluga caviar and chive that disintegrate in your mouth, Parisian gnocchi with foie gras and trumpet mushrooms, and nicely gamey quail with brussels sprouts." - alison kessler