Dry-aged fish and handrolls reign supreme at Top Roe - Review - Austin - The Infatuation
"Not unlike a combination Pizza Hut and Taco Bell, Top Roe has two formats under the same Downtown roof, and which side you choose to sit on makes all the difference. One side is a sleek, minimalist handroll bar where chefs whip up nori-wrapped parcels of rice and fish from a series of preordained menus faster than you can order another sake. The other is a dark, swanky izakaya with a longer menu of grilled skewers, fried snacks, sashimi, sushi rolls, and large-format steaks. Top Roe manages to make some of the best handrolls in the city while also offering an izakaya experience that feels both distinctly Japanese and uniquely Austin. photo credit: Richard Casteel photo credit: Richard Casteel photo credit: Richard Casteel Despite feeling like different restaurants, both spaces share a few key elements: high-quality fish, solid drinks, dramatic lighting, and a lively hip-hop-fueled playlist. There’s also a giant glass-door refrigerator in the middle, full of tuna slabs the size of cinder blocks that age for up to six weeks (and possibly develop their own personalities in the process). The handroll bar is ideal for a quick solo meal or an efficient date night—expect to be in and out in under an hour. The izakaya, on the other hand, is built for lingering. This is where you’ll want to show up with a small group, order an excessive number of skewers and sushi rolls, and finish off with a slab of 40-day dry-aged tuna belly served over a bed of hot coals that smoke and sizzle on the table. Across both menus, you’ll find Texas touches—like Rice Krispies karaage with watermelon hot sauce, or Gulf redfish sashimi—that make the whole place feel like it was born right here in Austin. photo credit: Richard Casteel Food Rundown photo credit: Richard Casteel Cocktails The drink menu is mostly highball variations that tend to skew slightly sweet and very satisfying. We like the shiso and americano variants, but a classic is also hard to beat. photo credit: Richard Casteel Seasonal Kakiage This has looked a little different every time we’ve ordered it, which adds to the dish’s seasonality. It’s usually some combination of bell peppers, okra, onions, and leafy greens that have been tossed together and fried into a giant, crispy mound. Pick at it with chopsticks or break it apart with your fingers—this is a great way to start the meal. photo credit: Richard Casteel Handrolls Access to the handroll menu is exclusive to the bar. You can choose from a list of set menus, or piece together your own combination. The rice is well seasoned, the nori is crispy, and most of the handrolls come topped with things like crispy shallots or pickled onions for some texture and a twist on classic flavors. photo credit: Richard Casteel Crunchy Tuna Futomaki If you’re sitting on the izakaya side, this is your answer to “But can I still get a handroll?” Here, instead of being presented one at a time, you’ll see a lot of the same options served in maki roll form, which are easier to share. These won’t be the highlight of your meal, but they’re a welcome interlude between heavier grilled bites. We like the crunchy tuna roll that comes topped with crispy bits. photo credit: Richard Casteel Yakimono Roughly translating to “grilled stuff,” this section of the menu is where you’ll find skewers of grilled chicken, pork belly, and seasonal vegetables. The pork belly and yakitori skewers are among the best in town, but the portions can feel a little small for the price. photo credit: Richard Casteel Blue Fin Toro Steak The undisputed MVP. The tuna belly is generally aged between 30-40 days before getting thrown onto a hot charcoal grill and cooked to a charred, pink-centered finish. It’s soft and buttery, and served with a tray of pickles and rice for some well-balanced bites. We’ve had a few occasions where our steak arrived oversalted and overcooked—which stings especially hard with a $120 price tag—but when it’s good, it’s something you’ll text all your friends about." - Nicolai McCrary
