

4
"Exposed wooden beams, gingham curtains, and a gruff owner holding court at the bar by the entrance make this bistro in the Marais look right out of a movie, but this spot is no tourist trap. The boisterous upstairs dining room overlooks the live woodfire, where most of the dishes on their meat-dominant menu are grilled. It’ll be impossible to look away from the entrecôte, spitting fat as it chars to perfection. When your server finally brings you your sauceless steak, it’s up to you to season it with flaky grey sea salt and pepper straight from the old-fashioned wooden grinder on every table. Take your first beefy bite, and the cacophony of the chock-a-block dining room truly seems to fade to black as the fat melts luxuriously on your tongue. When choosing your two sides, know that while the green beans are good and the salad perfectly fine, it’s criminal to skip the luscious, shallow-fried potatoes, a far better accompaniment than fries." - Emily Monaco