The Occidental - Review - Downtown - Washington DC - The Infatuation
"Originally opened in 1906 a stone’s throw from the White House, generations of presidents, senators, and journalists have flocked to The Occidental to make history, or drink their way out of it. (The end of the Cuban Missile Crisis was sparked here over a plate of pork chops.) Now, after a century of grandeur interspersed with bouts of irrelevance, Stephen Starr has stepped in and dusted off the red velvet. photo credit: Birch Thomas photo credit: Birch Thomas photo credit: Birch Thomas photo credit: Birch Thomas photo credit: Birch Thomas Pause Unmute The latest iteration of The Occidental is a throwback to the days when this spot was the hottest ticket in town. The midcentury menu revives dishes that haven’t been on-trend since the Eisenhower administration, and does them so spectacularly you’ll wonder how exactly they went out of style in the first place. You’ll find the requisite raw bar with oysters and cold king crab legs, but also a nod to Soviet dining in the herring under a fur coat. There’s caviar and crab cakes, of course, but also pigs in a blanket, made from Hebrew National hot dogs wrapped in the Occidental’s soon-to-be-legendary biscuits. The Occidental is a restaurant that reminds you that in DC, pageantry is important. It’s a loving homage—and an assertive return—to power dining with a wink and a flourish, where you can eat like a Kennedy and drink like a Cold War diplomat. Come hungry, bring your expense account, and dress like you have a secret to tell. Food Rundown Herring Under A Fur Coat This layered, Soviet-style salad of beets, dill, and potatoes is as niche as it is delightful. If you’re into caviar, vodka, or complicated political histories, this is your starter. photo credit: Birch Thomas The Pork Chop That Saved The World Presented on the menu with a backstory involving a reporter, a spy, and the Cuban missile crisis, this pork chop’s supposed heroics become believable at first bite. Cooked flawlessly, kissed with gremolata, and served with a single potato so buttery it could defuse a diplomatic crisis. photo credit: Birch Thomas Beef Stroganoff This is the dish your grandmother made on special occasions, if your grandmother did a stint as Khrushchev’s personal chef. Tender beef, rich cream sauce, and noodles that remind you carbs and cream are good, actually. Baked Alaska Housemade banana ice cream, apricot jam, and a perfectly toasted meringue. It looks like a cover girl from a 1950s dessert calendar and tastes like victory." - Allison Robicelli
