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"Tamarind, chilis, salted egg yolks, and lots of ginger and garlic are what keep Pichai, the Isaan-focused sister restaurant of curry counter Pumpui, going strong at the southern end of the Plaza Saint-Hubert. Trust the staff on the daily specials, which can include fried shrimp toast with patchwork pepper sriracha and snail salad with peanuts, lemongrass, and betel leaves. We love any of their riffs on som tam (the summer version with corn is something we dream about all year) and the Thai tea tiramisu: layers of sponge cake soaked in milky tea and coated in crunchy toasted coconut. The wine list is full of macerations and bubbles, local ciders, and beer to match those sour, pungent, spicy flavors served on classic Thai enamel plates." - ivy lerner frank