The Corner Store

The Corner Store - Review - Soho - New York - The Infatuation

"If you hate Catch, fair. There are more deserving objects for your rage, but the national clubstaurant chain that started in Meatpacking is, technically, an ostentatious money vampire. Their Soho sister restaurant, The Corner Store, on the other hand? Unimpeachable. We’re kidding, but only slightly. This nostalgic American spot is a serious-looking place that doesn’t take itself seriously. It’s a land of velvet booths and tiled marble floors, populated by servers in boxy suits who really think you could use some fancy pizza rolls and a cocktail rimmed with Cap’n Crunch. photo credit: Kate Previte photo credit: Kate Previte photo credit: Kate Previte Pause Unmute Sounds like a gimmick, but, for a place that’s pretty much The Cheesecake Factory in a more scene-obsessed tax bracket, the food is a lot better than it needs to be. And, relatively speaking, the prices aren’t atrocious. Avoid the caviar, and you can easily get out for under $100 per person. Not bad for a spot that works for a blowout birthday. Give in to the ridiculousness, and enjoy some disco steak frites with a Sour Cream & Onion Martini. The latter should be a crime, but goes down smooth, and that steak will run you a respectable $39 (a feat these days). Plus, the fries come drizzled with peppercorn aioli. Necessary? No. But fun. photo credit: Kate Previte photo credit: Kate Previte photo credit: Kate Previte Pause Unmute The same could be said about the fried cubes of cream cheese on the caesar, the multiple hosts guarding the entrance, and the lamp-lined gallery walls doing their best impression of The Polo Bar. It’s all a bit excessive, and yet, just right. Don’t think too much. That’s bad practice here. Just pop some pizza rolls while you try to figure out whose security detail is out front, and say yes when your server asks if you’d like the martini service for two. You’re a clubstaurant person now. How to get into The Corner Store The Corner Store releases reservations online two weeks in advance at 10am. They do not accept walk-ins for tables, and we learned this the hard way. There is, however, a 13-seat bar near the entrance where you can try to claim a seat. It tends to be packed by 6pm. Food Rundown Pizza Rolls Should you order the pizza rolls? On the one hand, they’re pretty much Totino’s, but much higher quality, with a flaky crust and big cubes of pepperoni. On the other, they’re pretty much Totino’s, for a little over $6 a pop. Don’t think. Just pull the trigger. photo credit: Kate Previte The Corner Store Caesar We’d like to take a minute to tell you how we feel about fried cubes of cream cheese. They taste good. And we like them. Especially on top of a well-dressed, decently-sized caesar. photo credit: Kate Previte Spinach Artichoke Dip Warm, stretchy, and packed with coarse greens, this is everything you want from a spinach artichoke dip. Shovel some onto a fresh and crispy housemade tortilla chip. photo credit: Kate Previte Lobster & Caviar Rolls It’s truly unfortunate that these lobster rolls on buttery toasted buns taste great, because they’ll set you back about $20 apiece. If you’re having a big night, go for it. But the quality of your life won’t suffer if you skip. photo credit: Kate Previte Steak Frites When in doubt, this is the entree you should order. The steak—sometimes hanger, sometimes strip—arrives with an excellent char, alongside a basket of crisp, skin-on fries. If you want your fries with squiggles of aioli on top (always a good choice), get them disco-style. photo credit: Kate Previte Wagyu French Dip Who did it best? Hillstone? 4 Charles? Or The Corner Store? It’s a toss-up, which is a very high compliment. The wagyu french dip is one of the best things here, served with a side of salty, ultra-concentrated jus that’ll make your fingers sticky. photo credit: Kate Previte Housemade Sauces Do you really need to pay an extra few dollars for some fancy ranch, special sauce, and horseradish aioli? Unfortunately, yes. We’d tell you if there was another way, but there isn’t. You especially need the zesty avocado ranch. photo credit: Kate Previte Samoa Sundae End every meal with this sundae. The coconut soft serve is thick and creamy, mixed with stretchy caramel, ribbons of hot fudge, and big chunks of shortbread. photo credit: Kate Previte Apple Hand Pies These remind us of McDonald’s. And actually, that sundae we were just talking about is pretty much Dairy Queen. Therein lies the magic of The Corner Store. They know what you want, in this case a few thick, crunchy apple pies with a side of soft serve in a dixie cup. photo credit: Kate Previte" - Bryan Kim