"Given that Wallfour started as a pandemic pop-up, its obsession with sourdough makes sense. But while we gave up on our homemade yeast starter years ago, this counter-service pizzeria in Eagle Rock clearly didn't. The gorgeous crust on their thin, crackly pies echoes from one table to the next, and a satisfying tang comes through in each bite. Atop that delicious bready foundation sits balanced layers of sauce and cheese, but it's the generous toppings where things really take off. Prioritize the basic-but-perfect Spiceroni with a slick of hot honey and teeny curled-up pepperoni, or the So Mush Love is blanketed with springy mushrooms, arugula, and roasted garlic cream." - brant cox, sylvio martins, cathy park