ALL ROADS Pinseria + Enoteca

"There’s usually a time, place, and budget for dinner at one of the many upscale trattorias along San Vicente, but All Roads is one of the few Brentwood Italian spots we’d send you to whenever. This all-day Roman pizzeria and wine bar from the Toscana people is casual (no white tablecloths) and only takes walk-ins. Light pours into the beige dining room through floor-to-ceiling windows, so you feel like a sunbathing tortoise as you nibble on antipasti. All Roads is pleasant and not too expensive by Brentwood standards, making it a good neighborhood go-to whenever you want to eat well and not think too hard about it. If you're aiming for a full meal here, base it around the Roman-style pies known as pinsas. The crust shatters like crispy focaccia that’s been inflated with air, the pomodoro is laid on thick, and toppings sway traditional, like anchovies, sausage, and handfuls of porcinis. The antipasti and salads are just as straightforward, including a pile of lightly fried artichokes and a shaved carrot and frisee salad massaged with lemony vinaigrette. The setting would be fine for a leisurely meal, but All Roads knows how to turn tables, too. The pinsas arrive fast, the friendly Italian servers check in every five minutes, and it feels like everyone here is doing the same thing: popping by for an easy, enjoyable meal. Food Rundown Carciofi alla Giudia There’s something satisfying about the way fried baby artichokes shatter when you bite into them. The golden, crispy leaves jut out, so the shaved pecorino and aioli get into every crevice. Carrot Salad A (non-fried) vegetable for the table is always a nice touch, and this tender carrot-forward salad does the trick. The lemony vinaigrette is just sweet enough, too. photo credit: Catherine Dzilenski Rossa This pizza is for the tomato heads out there: the San Marzano sauce is tart, while the confit cherry tomatoes are jammy and sweet. There’s some anchovies and salty olives in the mix, too, but they’re more like salty backup singers. Porcini The well-distributed toppings on this pinsa are key: you get a balance of sausage, sweet caramelized onion, and porcini mushrooms in each bite with the right amount of fresh mozarella." - Sylvio Martins