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"There are so many sandwiches listed on the menu boards all over Sorriso Italian Salumeria that it would take several blissful, if high cholesterol-shortened lifetimes to try them all. But we’d be willing to give it a shot. At this cash-only deli—an Astoria institution since 1976—you can count on the structural integrity of the sandwiches, with every component coming through in each balanced bite. Plenty are named for Italian-American celebrities, like the DiMaggio, the Sinatra, and the De Niro, but other sources of inspiration are closer to home. There's the NYC Department of Sanitation, which has grilled chicken, breaded eggplant, and roasted artichokes, or the Q18 bus, with toasted ravioli (yes, on a sandwich). photo credit: Kate Previte photo credit: Kate Previte photo credit: Kate Previte photo credit: Kate Previte Pause Unmute Order an Uncle Frank, and if you’re lucky, Uncle Frank himself might prepare it for you while wisecracking with a regular. The banter here is almost as good as the sandwiches. “My doctor says I can’t have bread or meat anymore. What do you got?” a fellow customer deadpanned during our last visit, before he requested extra prosciutto on his sub. Sorriso is also a densely packed gourmet market, its shelves crammed with olive oil, pannetone, Sicilian blood-orange sodas, and bags of 00 flour. The glass case of prepared foods (including housemade sundried tomatoes, enormous arancini, and no less than eight varieties of sausage) would keep everyone within a three-block radius well fed for at least the first month of the apocalypse. Food Rundown The Bam Bam One of Sorriso’s most popular sandwiches, for good reason. An impressively crisp chicken cutlet cozies up with prosciutto, fresh mozzarella, roasted red peppers, and a drizzle of balsamic. It’s a cousin of the Dennis at Nolita’s Parisi Bakery, but with a higher cheese-to-meat ratio. photo credit: Kate Previte The Godfather A classic rendition of a classic Italian sandwich, with cured meats galore. (Though the mortadella is the star.) This has just the right amount of roasted red peppers—enough to contribute a subtle sweetness without reducing the pleasantly crusty bread to mush. photo credit: Kate Previte Chicken Francese Meatball Sub The francese sauce is lovely and bright, and chopped broccoli rabe helps to cut through the fat, but the meatballs themselves are on the dry side. Still, it’s a fine change of pace. photo credit: Kate Previte" - Molly Fitzpatrick