"You might gravitate toward the masa-centric salbutes and panuchos topped and stuffed with succulent cochinita pibil that were popular at chef Manny Lopez’s previous restaurant, and you wouldn’t be wrong. But come on a weekend to his new Yucatecan counter-service spot on 82nd Ave. for the soups, like the stunning relleno negro, a turkey stew in a charcoal black broth darkened with charred chile paste called recado, and featuring a giant pork meatball that reveals a hard-boiled egg inside when you slice it open. The soup not only looks cool, but also has a wonderfully spicy-smoky flavor. This mom-and-pop place also does a more prim blanco version, solid menudo, plus a variety of pozoles. If it’s available, we recommend the milder green pozole that’s thickened with tomatillos." - krista garcia