At RVR, stellar izakaya cooking is given a dose of Venice cool - Review - Los Angeles - The Infatuation
"RVR can seem a little mysterious. You might walk past its angular concrete facade on Abbot Kinney and wonder: Is this another luxury eyewear store? What do they have against vowels? And why is it always packed so late on school nights? All these burning questions will be answered once you book a table, though, because RVR’s appeal isn’t mysterious at all. It’s a California-filtered izakaya with delicious food, great drinks, an energized crowd, and everything else you’d want from a night out in Venice (except for more elbow room, perhaps). photo credit: Graydon Herriott photo credit: Graydon Herriott photo credit: Graydon Herriott photo credit: Graydon Herriott photo credit: Graydon Herriott Pause Unmute A reboot of the dearly departed MTN, RVR is a comeback of sorts for the former Gjelina chef, a.k.a the person who changed our personal relationship with kale. As with Gjelina, assertively grilled, super-seasonal vegetables and gorgeously dressed salads are where this place shines brightest. Charred maitakes get brushed with salty miso butter, pickled burdock roots come wrapped in fragrant shisho leaves, and even a standard-seeming dish like little gem salad is revamped with smoked shoyu creme fraîche. RVR handles izakaya classics well, too—the karaage glazed in hot honey is exactly what we want with an ume highball, and the pan-fried pork dumplings hold their own against any gyoza spot in the South Bay. During daytime service, the menu follows the same produce-centric model but with a few brunchy additions, like squid fried rice tossed with a chopped omelet and Japanese pour-overs that go hand-in-hand with warm mochi beignets. Despite its hazy blend of cultures, RVR is 100% a Venice restaurant. Beanie-clad dads pull up to dinner on electric motorcycles, agency folks are on dates with graphic designers, and no one hears the lo-fi vinyl playlist over conversations about surf camp in Nicaragua. For now, this means that unless you’re cool with eating after 9pm (or opting for a slower-paced brunch), you’ll need to plan for a reservation, and even then, there’s a chance you’ll be seated along the narrow counter with zero back support. It’s by no means the comfiest dining experience, but there’s a reason why Abbot Kinney hasn’t seen energy like this since the Birkenstock store’s summer sale. RVR is a great izakaya, sure, but it’s a sexy Westside dinner destination, too. How to get into RVR Online reservations are released 30 days out at midnight daily. For walk-ins, plan on lining up before doors open at 5pm, or arriving after 8:30pm—you'll likely be seated at the wrap-around bar either way. Food Rundown Brunch RVR’s brunch service is a great hack if you don’t want to wait for a seat during primetime dinner hours. The crowds are smaller, the pace is slower, and not only does the menu include almost everything from dinner, there are also excellent daytime-only specials, like warm mochi beignets dripping with orange-miso syrup. photo credit: Sylvio Martins House Pickles This must-order salty rainbow platter has as much going in flavor as it does in color. The soy-soaked beets have a pleasant earthy sweetness, and the radishes tickle the back of your throat with wasabi heat. The best one is the crunchy burdock root wrapped in fragrant shiso leaf, which tastes like celery if it had the sugar content of a honeycrisp apple. photo credit: Graydon Herriott Crispy Pork Collar Tonkatsu We’re not sure if you can call yourself an izakaya without some fried pork on the menu, and in this case, RVR nails a classic. The thin crust on this sliced cutlet sticks to the marbled meat like Spandex, while being craggy enough to swipe up the sinus-clearing hot mustard on the side. photo credit: Sylvio Martins Cod Tempura Handroll Overall, RVR’s handrolls are the most underwhelming part on its menu, with the exception of the one stuffed with cod tempura. This two-bite fish fry reminds us of our ideal fish and chips (minus the chips) with its light, puffy crust. Each bite is moist from the warm seasoned rice and tangy tartare sauce. photo credit: Sylvio Martins Pork Rib & Belly Gyoza If you like carby dishes with your alcohol, you can’t go wrong with any of RVR’s dumplings. The best ones, however, are the plump pork gyoza loaded with chives. Their chewy wrappers developed crunchy bottoms after a hot and fast pan-fry, and they come glued together with a thin skirt that’s so satisfying to crack apart. photo credit: Graydon Herriott Little Gem Salad Yes, another little gem salad, except this one isn’t just another little gem salad. This platter of crisp salad tastes kissed by a hickory smoker, with a tangy creme fraîche dressing hit with savoriness from smoked shoyu. Bottarga comes shaved on top like fresh parmesan. photo credit: Graydon Herriott Roasted Maitake These giant mushrooms are bathed in salty miso butter and have all the qualities you’d want from a beautiful steak. They’re not only a great meat substitute, they're one of RVR’s best vegetable dishes. Charcoal Grilled Yakitori Out of all of RVR’s menu sections, we find ourselves hitting this one the most. These skewers pick up just enough smoke and char from the binchotan grill, and are the type of salty bite that leaves you craving a cold rice lager. You can’t go wrong with any of them, but the sweet-savory lamb sewer dusted with garam masala and the so-soft-they-melt duck meatballs are stand-outs. photo credit: Graydon Herriott Crab Mazemen RVR’s ramen section is short and sweet with three options, and each one comes with freshly rolled, nicely chewy noodles. It’s up to you whether or not you have the extra stomach space for a bowl of broth. If not, get this crab mazemen that’s also easiest to share. It's doused in an oddly delicious tart-briny tomato sauce that tastes like a bottle of clam juice fell into pomodoro, with generous amounts of sweet crab meat mixed in. photo credit: Sylvio Martins" - Sylvio Martins
