"Mad combines the sensory overload of a carnival funhouse with a flashy clubstaurant that serves small plates. While the Spanish restaurant in River Oaks is from the same folks behind the more refined BCN Taste & Tradition, they are about as similar as a cat toy and atomic clocks (they both involve lasers). Mad is more about how many selfies you can take in the mirrored hallway than eating dinner. photo credit: Mad photo credit: Mad photo credit: Mad It’s worth visiting for the cinematic decor like a life-size bear statue painted red, exploded-out shadowboxes of lunar landers, and the moody, neon-glow dining room. The whole place feels like the backdrop of an Italo-disco-inspired music video, pre-stocked with fashionable extras nibbling tiny tapas. Just don’t expect the food to be a kaleidoscope of flavor. Dishes like the steak tartare wrapped in edible newsprint don’t live up to how much effort was put into making the restaurant look cool. It’s all hat, no cattle. There’s no balance, no acid, just mushy beef in an interesting package. Where the cochinillo iberico feels lazy by comparison. The suckling, tender pork dish—served without anything interesting—is a slab of chopped pork (albeit well-cooked) with punch-sweet chutney and do-it-yourself lettuce wraps. We appreciate that Mad nails every protein, like a perfect medium-rare filet over paella. But when the rice is burnt and flavorless, nothing, not even a delicious steak or moody interiors, can save that. Food Rundown photo credit: Mad Beef Tartare Each tiny cylinder of beef tartare arrives wrapped in a faux newsprint wrapper. It’s cute and fun, and the tiny text is interesting, but there’s not much flavor to it. Each $7 piece is so small that the novelty of the newspaper presentation fizzles immediately. photo credit: Mad Surf & Turf Arroz Without a doubt, Mad can cook steak. This dish's sliced filet mignon and lobster taste perfectly seasoned, with a lovely medium rare sear and soft, buttery texture. But the rice, arguably the entire point of the dish, is burnt, flavorless, and unpleasant. photo credit: Mad Cochinillo Iberico Once again, Mad nails the meat, turning out a tender slow-roasted pork. But the accompanying sides of too-sweet mango and apricot chutney and butter lettuce result in an overly soft and uninteresting bite." - Chelsea Thomas
