"If you’re on Brick Lane and want to double down on the chaos, noise, and occasional stray elbow grazing your rib, go to Hoko Hong Kong Cafe. Inspired by Hong Kong’s cha chaan teng—teahouses where the food is quick, cheap, and casual—this revolving door of a restaurant is open all day. And it’s one of our favourite spots in the area. In the narrow entryway that can fit two thrifted-out tourists side-by-side if bags are maneuvered, the strategising begins. Big pictures of glistening french toast hang above the kitchen, pork chops sizzle on skillets, and pouches of silky, sweet milk tea sit on ice. Orders are obsessed over, then tapped into a self-service machine, and when your table is ready, brisk but friendly staff ferry you down into the diner-like dining room for a fun, fast meal. video credit: Sinéad Cranna Groups monopolise the booths and everyone else takes what they can get, cramming onto stools and hunching over mismatched plates. It’s best to stick to the signature dishes, like photo-perfect, soft, sweet french toast, finished with a perfect pat of swiftly melting butter and an extra glug of syrup from the jug on the table. And the meaty, moreish Hong Kong-style pork chop with sticky rice and a gooey fried egg. But really, all the food, like the snug basement-level room, is supremely comforting. Food Rundown Tofu Steak Bun A crusty, soft white bun is the perfect vehicle for soaking up sauce. You’ve got the choice of scallion or black pepper sauce, and we like the lightly spiced kick of the black pepper one. The tofu is nice and this will do the trick if a hunger-based carb meltdown is impending, but there are better things on the menu. photo credit: Sinéad Cranna Hoko Pork Chop With Egg & Rice We’d like this dish to console us on cold days, sick days, and all the meh days in between. It’s as simple as it sounds, but each element is just right. The rice is sticky and fluffy, the egg has a runny, bright orange yolk (the only sauce needed), and the pork chop is juicy and crisp. photo credit: Sinéad Cranna Hong Kong Classic French Toast This is what most people come for and it’s a worthy star item. Thick, with a giddy mixture of syrup and salty butter flowing down the sides, this french toast tastes as good as it looks. It’s also surprisingly light, which isn’t to say you won’t be full. And it isn’t to say it’s not incredibly sweet, but it’s not at all stodgy. photo credit: Sinéad Cranna Salt & Pepper Crinkle Fries Decent enough fries that we like for the nostalgia of the shape, but wish they had more seasoning. photo credit: Sinéad Cranna Hong Kong Milk Tea If you come here, you get the milk tea. It’s smooth, it’s sweet, and if you opt for the cold option, it comes in a very fun, branded pouch. photo credit: Sinéad Cranna" - Sinéad Cranna