Cocktails, small plates, and the setting are the stars at Amá - Review - Philadelphia - The Infatuation
"Most of Philly’s (excellent) Mexican restaurants fall into the casual category. What we lack are sexy and sophisticated options for a closer-to-upscale night on the town, with that same quality food. And while Amá’s entrees leave something to be desired, its cocktails, small plates, and stylish scene more than hit the mark. photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo Pause Unmute Amá’s chef comes from the nonstop neon-lit celebration that is LMNO, just a few blocks away. This is more like a version for the people who know what a deductible is and keep a strict bedtime. It doesn’t take itself too seriously, but has the expertly plated dishes and exceptional service that make you feel like you’re somewhere special. Couples at the speckled marble bar unlock hands to sip a sotol-soaked lime water ice cocktail and take bites of the smoky caesar salad. There’s not a bad seat in the cactus-lined house, but the luckiest diners sit by the retractable walls where they share tangy shrimp ceviche tostada, crunchy milpa and heirloom beans, and fantasize about being on the Cabo coastline—at least until the El comes roaring by. photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo Pause Unmute The chef’s prowess is evident in almost every dish on the seasonal menu. Shards of crispy corn tortillas are served with six types of salsa, each one representing a different region of Mexico. The squash blossom tlayuda looks more like a submission for the flower show than a Oaxacan tortilla. And the adobo chicken is fall-off-the-bone tender thanks to its 72-hour brine. But several of the mains disappoint, like lamb neck birria that’s slow-cooked but has no complexity or depth of flavor, and an obscenely large, obscenely priced octopus that sometimes borders on rubbery. video credit: Nicole Guglielmo Come here for a chic date night, when drinks and small plates are the name of the game, or bring friends, order the first half of the menu, and polish off the churros and a Canelo cocktail while missing that respectable bedtime. Just for one night. RESERVE A TABLE Food Rundown Tejuino Cocktail We are always on the hunt for a refreshing frozen cocktail, and this one is up there with the best of ‘em. It’s a frigid mix of sotol, fermented corn, and lime water ice. As it melts, the balance between the sweet, bright, and earthy flavors is still maintained. Order it. photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo Shrimp Ceviche Tostada The dish is made with fresh, perfectly firm white rock shrimp plus a layer of pico de gallo, burnt chillies, and plum-like chamoy. The subtle hit of the chopped veggies combines with a squeeze of lime to make an incredibly juicy bite. Sauce and citrus will drip down your chin, and the handmade corn tortilla falls apart after one bite. But it doesn’t matter. It’s delicious. PlayMute video credit: Nicole Guglielmo Charred Green Cabbage They put this fiery cabbage on a bed of pureed greens and topped it with almonds and herbs. And none of those elements make it taste like anything beyond burnt cabbage. Go for the milpa or caesar instead. PlayMute video credit: Nicole Guglielmo Camarones Zarandeado The beautifully grilled shrimp are served with three dips, but the only one you need is the glistening spicy salsa macha butter. The mayo-based one tastes overwhelmingly of, well, mayo, and the aguachile verde totally overpowers the flavor of the shrimp. Still worth ordering. photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo Seasonal Tlayuda We’ve had this masa masterpiece with wild mushrooms and black truffles, and with squash blossoms, creamy buffalo burrata, and herby epazote pesto. And both were thin-crusted wins. Especially the squash blossom, which came with a salsa verde that we might give up all other condiments for. PlayMute video credit: CANDIS R. MCLEAN Polla A La Leña This chicken has a 72-hour brine, so it's juicy and tender, with the right amount of crispness. It needs to be on your table. PlayMute video credit: Nicole Guglielmo Lamb Neck Birria What can we say? The most expensive birria in Philly tastes about as good as every solid birria place in town. Fall off the bone meat? Check. Savory consommé? Sure. But together, they lack a richness that you’d expect from a dish that gets the slow-cooked, TLC treatment. Outside of its size, there’s nothing really that sets it apart from the brothy birria masses in town. PlayMute video credit: CANDIS R. MCLEAN Wood-Fired Pulpo This is a five-pound slab of octopus. It comes with a grainy mound of forbidden rice with bits of more octopus. We’ve tried it when it’s been overcooked and rubbery, but even when it’s succulent, you won’t remember you ate it tomorrow. Your bank account, however, will. Camera roll or aquatic curiosity be damned. Skip it. PlayMute video credit: CANDIS R. MCLEAN Churros Light and crispy, plus cinnamon-sugar goodness. Enjoy. PlayMute video credit: Nicole Guglielmo" - Candis R. McLean
