"Le Pompon nails the neo-bistro formula: out with staid, heavy bistro classics like beef bourguignon, and in with seasonal dishes that use the South of France’s long growing season to maximum effect. Their chalkboard menu changes every few weeks and has just nine dishes. In summer, expect the likes of a zucchini purée with stracciatella, figs, and bread crisps. During the cold off-season, warm up with rustic pici with beurre blanc, espelette pepper, and Tomme de brebis. Although the dining room is narrow and the tables packed tightly together, it doesn’t feel cramped, thanks to the pillow-strewn banquette running along the wall. The flowing wine likely helps, too—there are 30-odd bottles on the menu, with €7 glasses that change based on what’s open that day." - sophie friedman, michael sinatra