Kioku By Endo - Review - Westminster - London - The Infatuation

"Kioku By Endo is another restaurant in the growing portfolio of Endo Kazutoshi, the sushi master and head chef of Endo at the Rotunda. It's on the top floor of the Old War Office, near Embankment, and riding the lift up and up here is exciting, if a little unnerving. Ascending floors to lunch or dinner tends to mean the price will be similarly lofty. photo credit: Kioku photo credit: Kioku photo credit: Kioku photo credit: Kioku photo credit: Kioku Pause Unmute That's the case at Kioku, although some of the food justifies it. Given it’s on top of a snazzy hotel, it isn’t surprising that the vibe of the room is shades of beige with views of Big Ben in the distance. Trust fund toddlers loll about in their seats at lunchtime, fiddling with impeccable otoro nigiri, while older versions do the same. The sushi is high quality, though we’d prefer a touch of vinegar in the rice. Mains are where Western fine dining influence comes into play and a chashu pork ramen ravioli is a delicious example. Other things, like a fiddly sea bass, are forgettable. Now that his flagship restaurant has reopened, you're unlikely to see Endo float around Kioku. And the fact of the matter is, this spot isn’t nearly as thrilling or focused as his eponymous London restaurant. But for high-class sushi next to the Thames, you won't find anywhere better. Food Rundown Nigiri Selection Given it's from a sushi master, you shouldn't be surprised that the most compelling reason to come to Kioku is to eat raw fish. The chef's nigiri selection includes melt-in-your-mouth hotate, sweet but firm hamachi, and all manner of otoro. We prefer our rice to have a little more flavour—but it's still excellent. photo credit: Jake Missing Chashu Pork Ravioli This bowl of ravioli mixes the deep, porky flavours of chashu pork ramen with the dainty finesse of a bowl of fine dining-style pasta. It's a success. And the salty broth is perfectly balanced. photo credit: Jake Missing Sea Bass This sea bass is dressed like a Chelsea Flower Show contender and it's nice enough, with crunchy asaparagus and vibrant hits of yuzu kosho. You're just unlikely to remember it once you've walked out of the restaurant. photo credit: Jake Missing" - Jake Missing