Torno Subito Miami - Review - Downtown - Miami - The Infatuation
"Torno Subito is an Italian restaurant that revolves around the fanfare of a very famous chef. And it relies on lore. It does this consciously—and obnoxiously. For the uninitiated, the amount of references sprinkled throughout dinner can feel like being on the outside of an inside joke. It’s hard to enjoy Torno Subito if you're not a fan of this chef and, frankly, a little frustrating if you are. Because the food is underwhelming, the service is sloppy, and Torno Subito does not match the supposed reputation of the man this restaurant was built to idolize. photo credit: Cristian Gonzalez photo credit: Cristian Gonzalez Most dishes come with painfully long anecdotes that focus on narrative instead of ingredients or flavor—leaving servers breathlessly rushing from table to table, perpetually behind. They’re trained to sell a story instead of useful recommendations. The Seussian dining room, an attempt to reflect the chef’s whimsical personality, is filled with so many curved edges and primary colors that you’d think it was a daycare if it weren’t for bowls of pasta and parmesan-infused martinis whizzing by. Their rooftop, decorated to look like a poolside lounge, is admittedly stunning and has one of our favorite Downtown views. But having a conversation in the dining room is an hours-long shouting match. So if the weather is nice, sit outside. The pastas are where Torno Subito mostly gets it right. It’s a nice break from the senselessly silly menu, featuring a lobster roll with caviar and chocolate lollipops. Unlike that stuff, the seven pasta options are more straightforward and the clear highlight of the menu. The meat for the tagliatelle’s ragu is hand-chopped, and the tortellini has a parmigiano reggiano sauce so sharp it could cut through tree trunks. The restaurant claims to have an “ironic approach” to Italian food. But it comes across as insincere and presumptuous. It’s a flop that’s selling you the feeling of proximity to a celebrity chef you’ll likely never meet (unless he’s in town for a $690 per person dinner) while soliciting his brand-name olive oil and vinegar at your table. You can find superior olive oil at Publix, and better Italian restaurants in Miami from local chefs who don’t care if you know their names. Food Rundown Tasting Menu This eight-course menu is actually closer to six courses. The first course is an amuse bouche with yesterday’s bread, which is very good but also arrives free if you go a la carte. And two courses are desserts, one of which is a chocolate lollipop. But you’re still leaving full. Dishes ramp up from sweet scallops with espuma to risotto with langostine. And it always ends with the famous tortellini. But honestly, but your money is better spent ordering pastas and martinis. photo credit: Cristian Gonzalez Modern Salad This salad comes with 14 different dressings, which sounds like vinaigrette overkill (or a joke about bridesmaids). But it’s not. It’s actually 14 individual dollops of dressing on buttery purple lettuce—all wedged between crispy parmesan shards. It’s delicious, but we just wish there was more of it. If you split it between two people, you’re lucky to get three leaves per person. PlayMute video credit: Julia Malave I Love Tartare They might love this tartare, but we don’t. It’s supposed to be a spoof on a classic, a deconstructed tartare with eight small dots of various sauces and condiments you’re meant to select per bite (not mix). But it’s an exasperating process that doesn’t work if you’re sharing the dish with someone. PlayMute video credit: Julia Malave Seabass Porketta The fish arrives overcooked, there’s barely any pork, and the grilled baby gem lettuce it comes with has a black olive paste that makes it taste acrid. photo credit: Cristian Gonzalez I Tortellini This should be the first thing you order, but it arrives last because it’s the restaurant’s signature dish (which you probably know if you watched the documentary about the chef). And it’s pretty great—even if you don’t have room for it, make it. The minuscule handmade tortellini are filled with pork and lounge in a creamy sauce made of parmesan reggiano that’s been aged longer than you’ve probably been at your current job. PlayMute video credit: Julia Malave Tagliatelle Al Ragù The tagliatelle is also Netflix-famous. It’s a simple dish done very well. Chopped pieces of meat cling to the slightly sweet ragu sauce and hand-cut pasta ribbons. You can request parmesan cheese, but it’s better without it. PlayMute video credit: Julia Malave Tiramisubito It looks gimmicky at first, and breaking the top layer reveals a concerning soupy dessert. But it's just the fluffy mascarpone foam with espresso ice cream. And it works. PlayMute video credit: Julia Malave" - Virginia Otazo
