Feld Review - Ukrainian Village - Chicago - The Infatuation
"Chicago has about as many expensive tasting menu spots as it does hot dog stands, but Feld is the rare $198 dinner with a T-shirt and jeans-friendly dress code. This laid-back Ukrainian Village spot is also efficient, as 30-ish farm-to-table courses arrive at your table in their small dining space, once every five minutes or so. But the pacing is more impressive than the food: many of the small dishes are treated too casually when it comes to minimal presentation, like a cheese course that simply lays out two triangles and a square like it’s trying to teach a toddler shapes. Flavors here can be even more inconsistent, with some dishes from their summer menu tasting more like the charcoal that cooked them. During the smooth coursing, the staff will tell you about the tiny Wisconsin farm behind that cheese, or how the fish in the bread course was caught two days ago. It often makes for good storytelling, until the spell is broken by yet another underwhelming bite. Feld's tasting menu changes seasonally, but here is an example of what you can expect: Food Rundown photo credit: Nick Allen Chicken Heart And Artichoke The crispy artichoke has the right amount of char from the grill, and the chicken heart has a nice chew. But they’re victims of Feld’s often plain approach to plating and look like they’re surprised to see each other on the same dish. photo credit: Nick Allen Halibut - Baby Corn The raw halibut is flavorless, and the baby corn frisbees on top only highlight that. As with a few other courses here, you’ll wish you had smuggled in some salt. photo credit: Nick Allen Badger Flame Beet Through some weird flavor science, this dish with chicken liver mousse and raspberries somehow achieves the flavor of a cheese curl. It’s a jarring moment for your taste buds, and very off-putting. photo credit: Nick Allen Lamb This is the most enjoyable, least confusing course of the night. The lamb belly is incredibly tender, and goes smoothly with the slightly tougher 88-day-aged lamb. The jam adds a welcome acidity and sweetness. photo credit: Nick Allen Cheese These three pieces of cheese from a tiny Wisconsin farm are pleasant and rich. But their indifferent presentation might offend you on the cows’ behalf. Fruit The last course is just some berries, a grape, and nectarine slices on ice. The fruit does not disappoint. Each piece tastes like it was the best from its bunch. It’s also the rare dish in which simplicity is charming, instead of lazy." - Nick Allen
