"Sepia and its outdoor tapas bar, Julis, have the most peaceful, green setting inside hilltop Parc Pierre Puget, plus views of the cityscape and a little slice of the Med. Lunch at Sepia is a la carte, with mains from €20 and a three-course dinner (€55) of things like pork shoulder with black rice and wild leeks or a fish tartare. Julis is more accessible and its menu a bit more global, with small plate options like grilled sardines with brûléed oranges and chimichurri, or chicken teriyaki with figs and pickled shiitakes. Come for sunset cocktails, like a zingy ginger julep or a mezcal negroni. Reservations are recommended for Sepia, but you can walk in at Julis." - Sophie Friedman